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UIBRftRV OF CONGRESS 

wm 



SUGGESTIONS 

FOR 

Teaching Household Arts 

AND 

Agriculture 



PUBLISHED BY THE 

1U^^ — DEPARTMENT OF EDUCATION 



M. L. BRITTAIN. 
State Superintendent ol Schools 



ATLANTA, GA. 

Chas. P. Byrd, State Printer 

1!I13 



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0. OF 0. 
0£C 26 '91S 



PREFACE. 

For sometime, Miss C. S. Parrish, Mr. M. L. Duggan, Mr. F. E. 
Land, and Mr. Geo. D. Godard, our State School Supervisors, have 
felt the necessity for presenting their teaching on industrial subjects 
in a more definite and permani'nt form. The need for this exists rathei- 
more keenly than in other departments of the educational field where 
the form of instruction has been agi'eed upon and fixed through custom 
and practice for years. This pamphlet is the result of their conference 
and deliberation at the Department of Education, and I cordially 
endorse its purpose, and believe it will be of decided benefit to the 
schools of the State. 

M. L. BRITTAIN, 
State Superinlendi-Mit of Schools. 



GARDENING FOR COUNTRY SCHOOLS. 

An iutimate knowledge of the difficulties in the way of teaching 
gardening effectively in country schools has led to a plan which will 
obviate most of these difficulties, and be within the power of any 
country teacher. 

It is fully understood that if gardening in country schools is to 
succeed, it must, under present conditions, begin and end with the 
school terra, take only a little of the time of each child, be done on a 
small surface, meet a practical need, and commend itself to llie par-nfs 
of the children. 

Hot-bed and cold frame gardening may he begun in Georgia at 
any time from October to January, and the plants may be transferred 
to the open ground on dates ranging from January 15 to April 15. 
These dates include the term of the great majority of the country 
schools. Neither the hot-bed nor the cold frame will occupy much 
space, a half hour a week from each child will keep them in order, they 
will give fresh vegetables a month earlier than would otherwise be pos- 
sible, and will supply home gardens wth plants which are now usually 
ordered from a distance or grown very late. 

Instructions For The Hot Bed. 

Select a ])laee sunny in winter, sheltered from the cold winds, and 
so well drained that water will not rise in a shallow pit. The south 
side of the school house is frequently suitable, the higher wall of tha 
wooden frame being placed about four feet from the school house. Dig 
a pit sixty-eight inches wide, twelve feet long and two feet deep. In the 
bottom of the pit, put coarse litter to the depth of six inches. On this 
put twelve inches of fresh horse manure, mixed with humus. If the 
manure has very little humus in it, put alternate layers of manure and 
leaves, hay, or chopped corn stalks. Trample or beat this manure down 
until it is well packed. It will be well to pack litter between the 
manure and the sides of the pit, in order to protect the manure from 
the cold ground. On the manure, put four inches of woods earth or rich 
garden soil, liberally mixed ^vith well rotted manure — preferably cow 
manure. Then put the frame and cover described below in place, and 
leave the bed to heat up. The heat is caused by the fermentation of the 
manure. The seeds should not be planted until four or five days later, 

Wooden Frame for Hot Bed or Cold Frame. 

Make a rectangular frame twelve feet four inches long and six feet 
wide on the outside. Let it be twelve inches high at the back, and sis 
inches high in front. Let the sides slope so as to fit this back and 



front. Make tliiee grooves, three inches wide, one inch deep, two feet 
and ten inches iipart, on both front and back. Be careful to have these 
jrrooves on front and back exactly opposite eacli other. In the gi-ooves 
nail strips, six feet long three inches wide and one inch thick. Along 
the middle of each three inch strip nail a strip six feet long, one inch 
wide and one inch thick. The frame is illustrated below. 




(ilass sash six feet long, and three feet wide, may be used to cover 
the frames. Sash of I his sort may be bought for two dollai-s and 
twenty-five cents apiece, from any hunher manufacturing company. 




IIOTBEn, Showing Fk.mie and Sasu. 

but this would make the beds expensive, and glass is not necessary to 
success. A thick, stout cotton cloth which can be bought for fifteen cents 
a yard may be substituted. If this is used, no sash will be necessary. 
The inch strips will also be unnecessary. The three inch strips will 
still be needed to hold up the cloth. 

Directions for Cloth Cover. 
Cut the cloth into lengths of seven feet, sew tlie.se together on the 
selvage edges until there is a piece fourteen feet wide. Turn one of 
the raw edges under, and tack it to the top of the frame, letting one 
foot hang over at each end. Turn under the other raw edge, and nail it 
to a stout pole twelve feet long. The seven feet of cloth will allow the 
jiole to hang over the front of the cold frame, weight the cloth, and 
hold it in place. The lumber for the frame will be cheaper if it is 
bought undressed. In this case, it should be covered with a creosote stain 
to make it last longer. Very frequently, the children can pick up 
enough scrap lumber about their homes to make the frame, and the best 
parts of two or three old wagon sheets will make the cloth cover. 



Cold Frame. 

This is nothing more than a frame built and protected just as a hot- 
bed frame is, but -without the fermenting manure. It is placed on well 
broken up ground, in a sunny place, six inches of woods earth or garden 
soil mixed with well rotted manure are put in it, and it is ready for 
use. 

Remarks and Cautions. 

The slope of either hot bed or cold frame should be toward the 
south, so as to give the plants the winter sunshine. 

The dimensions given for the frames are merely suggestive. A 
frame twelve feet long will have four compartments three feet wide. 
If it seems best, there may be four separate frames, each three by six. 
Other arrangements will readily suggest themselves. In most cases, it 
will be better to have both a hot bed and a cold frame. Sometimes, 
one small hot bed, and a cold frame for each grade is advisable. 

Teachers are urged to have the children make the wooden frames 
and the cloth covers, thus giving them valuable manual training, and 
to have them calculate the quantity and cost of the lumber and cloth, 
thus giving them practical work in arithmetic. 

Use of the Frames. 

The seeds should be sown first in the hot bed. As soon as they have 
their true leaves, they should be drawn gently out or removed with a 
flat stick. The soil should be well watered the day before this is done 
so that the work will be easy. With the flat stick or with the fingers, 
lift out a clump of soil with a number of plants in it, and then gently 
separate the little plants. Set the plants deeper than they were in the 
hot bed but not too deep. The figure below shows the proper size of 
the little plant and the depth at which it should be planted. When 




the "pricking off" or transplanting is done the plant should be protected 
from the sun for a day or two. When the plants are two or three 
inches high they should again be transplanted. This transplanting often 
repeated will make them "stocky" and hardy. Then when the spring 
opens, and they are put into the open ground they will grow faster and 
make finer vegetables. As soon as they develop a good leafage, they 
should be "sheared" at each transplanting. This shearing is a good 
thing to remember in connection with all transplanting. It takes some 
little time for the newly set roots to adjust themselves and get water 
from the soil. If there is much leaf surface, the evaporation will send 
away far more water than the phiut gets from the roots and it will die. 
When the leaves are cut away, evaporation is cheeked until the roots 
can begin to do their work. Care must be taken, however, not to cut 
out the bud from which the plant grows. The cut below shows where 
the shearing should be done and also shows the advantage of trans- 
planting. Plants "a" and "b" are the same age but "a" was left in 
the seed lied wliilc "b" was transiihinled. 




Care of the Frames. 

W^hen the sun is shining, and the weather is not too cold, the glasy 
or cloth should be removed, and the plants allowed to get sun and air. 
The cover should always be put on before sunset and left on until the 
sun is high in the sky in the morning. On cold cloudy days, the 
frames should be left covered. At a school, they should be carefully 
closed on Friday afternoon and left so until Monday morning. On very 
cold nights, old rugs or sacks or anything warm, which is handy, should 



8 

be thrown over the frames for extra protection. The earth in the 
frames should be kept moist by sprinkling it well with tepid water every 
two or three days. It should never he allowed to get di-y, and care 
should be taken that the wetting goes to the lowest roots of the plant. 
When the weather is chilly or cold, the water used may be quite warm. 
When there is a warm gentle rain, open the frames, and let the plants 
enjoy it, but shield them from cold or beating rains. 



CALENDAR. 



November. 

Sow lettuce, cabbage, cauliflower, beets, (omaloes, egg plants, sweet 
j)eppers, onions and pansics in the bot bed. Sow spring radishes and 
parsley in the cold frames where they will not be disturbed. Prick off 
all plants except the radishes and parsley as soon as they have their 
true leaves. The loiuatoes, pepper and egg plants would better be 
planted again in the hot bed, but the others can go to the cold frames. 

December. 

Transplant to the cold frame all plants (hat are ready for it. Make 
fresh sowings of lettuce, cabbage, cauliflower, tomatoes, and beets in the 
hot bed. Put the cabbage plants in a more exposed part of the cold 
frame to "harden off." This is done by giving more air and less water, 
and by leaving them uncovered more and moi'c, until finally the covers 
can be left off entirely. 

January. 

Transplant from December sowings. Transplant the "luirdened off" 
cabbage plants to the open ground. Take some tomato plants from the 
liot bed, plant them near the higher wall of the cold frame, and turn 
a fruit jar over each, taking care that the glass does not touch the 
|ilaiit. Let as many children do this as will bring the fruit jars. Make 
fresh sowings of whatever plants the children want. 

February. 

Let the children take home cabbage and beet idants and put them in 
the open ground. If they can make shelters like this let them take 





^-^^^fi<'W:mx^^- ■■■■ '• ' 



Board Used fou Protection of Plants. 



10 

tomato plants, cautioning them to turn the glass jars over the plants 
and to cover the whole with old rugs on cold nights. The board should 
be on the north side of the plants. Have the children fold paper boxes 
and fill them with rich earth. Plant in these boxes encumbers, canta- 
loupes and squash. Place the boxes in a sunny part of the cold frame, 
and keep them well watered. These plants cannot be transplanted, but 
when the spring opens, the paper boxes can be set in the open ground. 
The paper will decay and fall away, leaving the plant to flourish and 
fruit much earlier. Make a last sowing of tomatoes. 

March. 

As soon as the warm weather comes, let the children take all the 
plants home and plant their gardens. The school may make a specialty 
of growing certain plants, and selling them to neighboring farmers. 
Tomato plants will pay well. Beets are not hurt by frost and can be 
put out in February. If the school is near a market the cultivation of 
lettuce can be made vei-y profitable. 

Cultural Directions. 

Seeds should be covered with earth to cibout four times their thick- 
ness. The earth should always be "firmed" over and around the seed. It 
is good for a child to get into the hot bed or cold frame and walk 
heavily over every inch of it after the seeds are planted. This will 
press the earth close to the seed so that the plant food will be easily 
available. After this the ground should be lightly raked over so as to 
give it a "dust mulch." After the plants come up, the soil should be 
kept stirred, but all cultivation should be very shallow. 

The illustrations on the preceding pages are copied by permission 
from bulletins of the United States Department of Agriculture. 



u 

CHILDREN'S HOME GARDENS. 

Hot beds and cold frames i'uruish, perhaps, llie best foiin of vege- 
table gardeiiiiig which can be earned on successfully at the country 
school under present conditions, but every teacher should encourage 
home-gardening among the children, allowing them to take plants from 
the hot beds luid cold frames as a starting point for these gardens. The 
teacher should discuss the methods and principles of outdoor gardening 
in the school, should visit the home gardens, and help the children to 
presen'e and market the crops. The lessons given at the school can be 
utilized for reading, writing, spelling, language and arithmetic, so that 
time will be saved rather than lost. If the work is well done, the 
parents will be pleased rather than offended. 

If the cabbage plants in the cold-frames have been hardened off 
properly, they can be planted in the open air, even in December and 
January. They will grow a little in eveiy warm spell and thaw out 
safely after evei-y hard freeze. The teacher should learn the details of 
cabbage culture, teach it to the children, and encourage emulation among 
them in growing hne cabbage. For these details, see Free Farmers' 
Bulletin No. 433. Luptou's "Cabbage and CauUflower for Profit" can 
be bought from Peter Henderson, New "York City, for 25 cents. 

Cauliflower should not be put in the open ground until all danger 
from frost has passed, but the children should be encouraged to grow 
some in their home gardens. It is much more delicate than cabbage, can 
be cooked in a number of ways, and will help to give variety to the 
home diet. 

Each child should be persuaded to select three or four varieties of 
Ijlants from the hot-bed and cold-frame, but it would probably be better 
to emphasize tomatoes, since this is the usual vegetable for the girls' 
canning clubs. 

The teacher should persuade as many girls as possible to cultivate a 
tenth-acre garden, and should, as far as possible, visit the 
homes for the purpose of helping the girls to locate and lay oft their 
gardens. When this is done, the tomato plants grown in the hot-beds and 
cold-frames should be used for the earliest plantings, thus enabling the 
girls to begin their canning a month earlier than would otherwise be 
possible. 

The teacher should encourage the gii-ls to make later sowings in the 
open air, so as to have ripening tomatoes in the garden until frost. 
When the coming of frost is certain, all the small tomatoes should be 
gathered from the vines for pickling purposes. The vines with the 
large tomatoes on them may then be pulled up and hung in the bam, 
or some other sheltered place on rafters. Sometimes the tomatoes 



12 

which are nearly ready to ripen are gathered, wrapped iu paper, and 
packed iu boxes. They will ripen gradnally and last a long time. The 
girls in the school who cannot have a tenth acre garden should be 
encouraged to have a smaller one, to can their vegetables and keep 
their records as carefully as the canning club girls do. The school itself 
should offer some reward for best results among these small gardens. 

For instructions and directions in tomato culture see bulletins of 
Georgia State College of Agriculture No. 6, "Girls' Club Work in Geor- 
gia," and Fi-ee Farmei-s' Bulletins Ncs. 220, 521, and 833. These cost 
nothing. Write to U. S. Department of Agriculture, Wa.shington, D. C. 

The squash, cucumber, and melon plants transferred to the open 
ground, as indicated in "Hot-bed and Cold-frame Gardening," will give 
results at least a month earlier than from seeds planted after the danger 
of frost has passed, but the children should be encouraged to continue 
this culture by planting seeds as long as the season permits. For details 
concerning squash and cantaloupe culture, see Free Farmers' Bulletin 
No. 255, and for cucumbers. Bulletin No. 254. 



Treatment of Soil.. 

The children should he persuaded to break up the soil for their 
garden iu the fall, and to give it the deep plowing advocated for farms. 
If a child has only a small plot, he can do deep breaking with a fork. 
He should be led to add liunuis and stable manure to it through the 
fall and winter, and to put it in such a condition that it will conserve the 
winter rains. This will give tlie teacher a fine opportunity to teach the 
physical and chemical nature of the soil, and how to build it up. The 
capacity of the different kinds of soil for water, the capillarity of the 
soil, and many other lessons can easily be taught in this connection. 
See Free Farmers' Bulletin No. 40!). 

The Rotation of Crops. 

The rotation of crops, so necessary on the farm, is also advantageous 
in the garden, and the children should be taught to follow peas and 
beans with corn or with lettuce and cabbage, and these with beets, 
radishes and similar crops. Sometimes it is well to have a garden in 
which only half the space is put in vegetables, while the other is kept in 
clover or some other nitrogen giving crop, the garden being shifted li> 
I Ids place when the clover comes oil'. 

Successive Plantings. 

It is a common custom in Georgia lo i)huit a garden in the early 
summer, and when this has passed, to do without vegetables. The chil- 
dren should be taught to make successive planting-s iu their gardens, so 
as to have a great variety of vegetables from early summer until frost, 
and a somewhat smaller variety through the whole winter. Peas, beans, 
radishes and beets, should be planted every two weeks until about 
six weeks before frost. Corn should be planted evei-y three weeks 
through the same period. There should be at least three plantings of 
tomatoes. All other vegetables cultivated in the garden should have 
as many successive plantings as may be necessary to ensure a continuous 
supply. 

Winter Gardening. 

In south Georgia a great variety, and in north Georgia, a goodly 
number of vegetables will grow througii the winter. Spinach, mustard, 
kale, turnips, turnip-greens, rutabagas, leeks, onions, pareley, salsify, 
parsnips, carrots, radishes, and beets can be liad through the winter as 
far north as Athens. Parsnips, salsify, and carrots are long-season 
vegetables, and should be sown not later than June. They will remain 
in the gi-ound until they have to be removed for spring plantings, and 



14 

will be eutirely uninjured by heavy freezes. Turnips, rutabagas, beets 
and some onion-sets should be planted in July or August. These also 
will remain in the ground throughout the winter uninjui-ed by freezes. 
Onion-sets may be put out at any time from the middle of July till the 
middle of March. Spinach, mustard, and seven-top turnips for greens 
may be sown as late as October, and if well established before frost, 
will flourish throughout the winter. Winter radishes and beets may be 
sown through August and September. 

Seed Catalogues and Bulletins. 

Seed Catalogues may be bad from Peter Henderson, New York City; 
from Livingston & Sons, Columbus, Ohio; from Wood & Sons, Rich- 
mond, Va. ; and from H. G. Hastings & Company, Atlanta, Ga. These 
will be very valuable in giving instructions for planting and cultivating 
all sorts of vegetables. 

Free Fanners' Bulletin No. 255 can be obtained from the United 
States Department of Agi-iculture, Washington, D. C, and gives a 
valuable discussion of the home vegetable garden. Other bulletins can 
be obtained giving minutely the method of cultivation of certain veget- 
ables. For Beans, see Bulletin No. 289 ; Cabbage, No. 433 ; Celery, No. 
282; Cucumbers, No. 254; Onions, No. 354; Strawberries, No. 198; Rasp- 
ben-ies, No. 213 ; Cow Peas, No. 318 ; Grapes, No. 471 ; Potatoes, Nos. 35 
and 884; Asparagus, No. 61; and Tomatoes, No. 220. If a book is 
desired, Bailey's Principles of Vegetable Gardening can be bought from 
the Macmillan Company, Atlanta or New York. Weed-Emerson's "The 
School Garden Book," and Meier's "School and Home Garden," are also 
very helpful. The first is published by Charles Scribner's Sons, the 
latter by Ginn & Co. Both can be bought from The Southern School 
Book Depository, Atlanta, Ga. 

Free Garden Seed. 

Enough free garden seed for distribution among the school children 
may be obtained from the United States Department of Agriculture 
through the congressman from the district. In order to obtain these 
seed the teacher should write to the congressman in November or Decem- 
ber, giving him a list of the seeds desired and the number of children 
in the school as an indication of the quantity of the seeds needed. 



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10 ■ 

CORN CLUB WORK. 

The corn clubs iii Georgia have passed beyond the experimental 
stage, their immense value to the State having been fully demonstrated, 
hence every teacher in the State should induce as many children as 
IJossible to join them. 

It is a mistake to suppose that the demonstration agents employed 
by the general government, by the State, and by private enterprise, could 
do tills work without the co-operation of the teachei-s, even though their 
present number .should be quadrupled. Last year there were 10,00(1 
Georgia boys enrolled in the corn clubs, with not more than seven 
agents to look after them. That only 2,500 boys persisted to the end 
was largely due to the fact that the teachers did not feel their respon- 
sibility in the matter, and did not co-operate as they should have done. 

The first thing that the teachers should do is to become familiar with 
the work themselves. They should write to J. Phil Campbell, Stall' 
College of Agi'iculture. Athens, Ga., and obtain for their own use all 
the bulletins needed by the corn club boys. These should be carefully 
studied so that the teacher can he the leader of the boys. The first thing 
for the teacher to do in helping the boys is to see that the acre is 
properly laid off. Difl^erent shapes for the acre and methods of laying 
it off should be discussed in the arithmetic class and the boys informed 
about the matter. The teacher should see that the boys do deep fall plow- 
ing: wherever the soil will allow this, and that they put a sufficient quan- 
tity of hum\is on the acre to make it conserve the winter rains and render 
the crop practically independent of summer drought. The constant 
cultivation of the corn should be urged upon them. They should be 
stimulated to stir the soil lightly after eveiy rain so as to conserve all 
the moisture possible, but they should also be taught that the drier the 
ground, the greater the need of cultivation in order to make sure of all 
the moisture it has. In like manner, the teacher should look after every 
detail of the work, visiting the acres frequently and helping the boys 
in every way possible. 

The records which are required by the corn clubs can be utilized by 
the teacher in reading, spelling, language, composition, and arithmetic 
work, and therefore should be made at the school and inspected by the 
teacher, the periods usually given to the subjects mentioned being used 
for them whenever necessary. 

One embarrassment for the teacher has come from the fact \V-^t not 
all the children in certain classes join the com clubs, and there is not 
time enough, aside from the regular class work, to give the necessary 
instructions. This trouble can be obviated by giving the instruction to 
the whole class or to several classes combined, and then utilizing it as a 
basis for other subjects as has been indicated. It will be well to per- 
suade such children as do not belong to the corn club to undei'take to 



20 

cultivate a smaller plot, sny a square rod, according to corn club direc- 
tions. But whether they do that or not, there is no belter way to 
arouse interest in the subject than by teaching it to all the children at 
suitable times throughout the session. 

Illustrative Series of Lessons. 

Take Free Farmers' Bulletin, No. 229, and have several children read 
to the class the marks of a desirable stalk of corn, pages G and 7. Make 
sure of the attention of the whole class to the matter read. Manage the 
reading as you would any other reading lesson. In the language period, 
(|uestion the children about what was read, until all the marks of a good 
stalk of corn are developed, and have the children write these on the 
board as au outline for a composition. Have the children talk this over 
with the teacher until the matter is rich and full, and they are 
perfectly familiar with it. Utilize this couvereation as an oral language 
lesson. The children are now ready to go to a nearby tield and select 
good stalks of com. If this is not possible, have each child bring a 
good stalk from his fallier's field, and have the children compare and 
judge the stalks. 

Compositions should be written by the class according to the outline 
developed. Go over these, and select three or four of the best to have 
read before the class. 

Make a list of the misspelled words and have them for a spelling 
lesson. 

Make a list of the gi-ammatical mistakes and' use them for a gi'ammar 
lesson, assigning the children the parts of the text-book bearing upon 
these mistakes, as home work. 

Make a record of all the bad sentences and have the children recon- 
struct them. In like manner, the selection of the best ear, the germina- 
tion of the seed, the preparation of the soil, the mi.xing of the fertilizers, 
and evei-y other detail of corn culture can be made the basis of lessons 
in the subjects mentioned, and also of vei^y valuable work in arithmetic. 
The children should make germination boxes themselves as manual 
training, and each should test several ears of corn, finding and record- 
ing percentages of germination, length of sprouts, &c. 

The children should study carefully the root development of corn, 
from the sprouting of the seed to maturity, and make careful drawings 
of it. The method of corn reproduction, the reasons for detasseling, 
cross-pollination, and many other subjects can be given as nature work. 
For definite instructions, see Bulletin of Georgia State College of Agri- 
culture. (Boys Corn Club) No. 3, and Free Farmers' Bulletins Nos. 220, 
313, 537, 741, 503, 644, 414, and 415. These may be obtained from 
The State College of Agriculture and from the United States Depart- 
ment of Agriculture, Washington, D. C. 



21 

HOUSEKEEPING AND SANITATION IN THE RURAL 

SCHOOLS. 

"Cleanliness is next to GodliiiL'ss'' finds ample demonstration in an 
ordinary common school, where it is so nearly related to the health and 
happiness of human life. 

The Schoolroom. 

It is assumed that the school house has already been built, that it is 
properly located, and that it is of sulVieicnt size to accommodate all the 
children of the district. It should be situated on an elevation, not too 
close to creeks, swamps, and mai-shes. For proper form, size, location, 
&c., see "School Architecture"' Department uf Edvication, Atlanta, Ga. 

A large supply of light should flood the schoolroom during school 
lioui-s. An insufficient supply will injure the eyes of the pupils quickly 
and permanently. The light should come from the left and the rear of 
the children rather than from the front. Direct sunlight should not 
fall upon the desk or book of any pujjil while he is studying. 

Ventilation. 

The ventilation of the room should liave the constant and careful 
attention of the teacher and trustees of the school. Broken window- 
panes should be immediately replaced with whole ones, as partial 
draughts on children often cause serious and sometimes lasting results 
in poor health. Cracks in the floor should not be allowed to exist, 
where the room is well eonstnicted, at least one window should be left 
open on the side opposite the wind, and if the weather will permit, all 
the windows on that side should be open. Fresh air and sunshine tend 
to keep down disease, and should be used freely. 

Heating. 

Proper heating of the room is quite necessary. Under-heating is less 
injurious than over-heating. An iron stove should be used where better 
forms of heating cannot be afforded. The pipe should have at least 
one elbow in it in order that the heat may be kept in the room, and 
the pipe should be thoroughly riveted to prevent any falling. A zinc or 
tin mat should be placed under the stove, and there should be a per- 
forated radiator enclosing the fire-pot to prevent danger to children, 
and to mix more evenly the hot air with the cooler. 

Cloak Rooms. 

Evei-y schoolroom should have cloak rooms for hats, cloaks, and 
lunches. These articles should never be allowed in the desks of the 
children. Nails or hat-hangers should be placed on the walls of the 



22 

cloak room, ;i number should be placed over each, and each assigned 
to one pai'tieular child. There should be shelves to hold the lunches 
and dinner-buckets of the children. No crumbs should be allowed to 
remain on the floor, as rats and mice will be drawn to the room to the 
injury of flowers and books. The cloak room should not be made a place 
for storage of plunder and useless material. 

If a good cloak room cannot be afforded, one may be improvised by 
cutting off a naiTow part of the room with canvas cloth. This will not 
cost much and the appearance of the I'oom will be much improved. 

Scouring. 

The floor of the schoolroom should be kept clean. It should not be 
used after vacation until it has been swept, brushed, dusted and scoured. 
Even the desks should be washed, the walls and ceiling brushed, and the 
windows cleaned inside and out. 

The glasses of the windows may be cleaned with some such 
preparation as '"Bon-Ami," which may be purchased at most grocery 
stores. In the absence of this, use cloths sprinkled with kerosene oil, 
and then polish with a dry soft cloth. Use a step-ladder to reach the 
windows or tie a mop to the end of a pole and do the work with that. 

For cleaning the window-sills, sash-frames, chalk-trenches, and 
mouldings, add two tablespoonfuls of kerosene oil to one bucketful of 
water, and apply with a cloth. 

Lastly the floor should be well scoured. Having cleared it of all 
movable furniture, wet it thoroughly with an easily procured potash 
preparation, or strong soap and water, and scrub with a mop until clean, 
rinsing it well with clear water. The old fashioned shuck mop is prob- 
ably the best and the most available in the country, but sacks may be 
wrapped on a weeding-hoe and used to good effect, or a worn cane 
stick-broom may prove a good substitute. 

Floor Dressing. 

After being thoroughly cleaned, it would be well for the floor to 
have a coat of floor-dressing or floor oil which can be ob- 
tained from any disinfectant company, as West Disinfecting Company 
or The Frederick Disinfectant Company, both Atlanta, Ga. This will 
cost not over one dollar per gallon, and one gallon will dress one room, 
with enough left for the closet floors. This preparation will keep down 
the dust and kill disease germs. 

Sweeping. 
Before the sweeping is begim, spider webs, and other deposits should 
he biiished from the walls and furniture, the broom dampened with 
kerosene water, and the doors and windows opened. The sweeper should 



23 

use a heavy, steady pull, rather than a jerk which raises the dust, and 
should go from the walls toward the center of the room, in order that 
the dust may not be blown back by the wind. When the trash is in a 
heap, it should be taken up in a dust pan, put in a box or basket, and 
carried to a trash pit at some distance from the house, where it should be 
burned at suitable times. The pit should be duj;; a few feet deep, and 
may be enclosed with a small piece of wire fencing. 

All sweeping should be done thoroughly, leaving no corners or places 
under desks or stove unswept. If there are rugs, they should be taken 
up and shaken, and the space under them swept. When the work is 
complete, the broom should be dipped into the bucket of kerosene w-ater, 
and hung with straw downward to dry. 

The sweeping should he done at least once a day, and. if possible, 
twice. After a little wise and tactful teaching of sanitation, the children 
will sweep cheerfully, if no janitor service is available. Fine results 
have been obtained by dividing the children into housekeeping groups, 
and exciting emulation among the gi-oups. 

Papers should never be allowed to lie on the liuor or on any part of 
the grounds. The time to pick up a paper is the moment it drops. 
Children should be trained not to tear up paper without a purpose, and 
to put all useless paper into a basket or box provided for the purpose. 
Some teachers have the children make pretty little bags, and hang them 
on the desks to hold necessary waste paper. Under no circumstances 
should paper be swept into the yard. Dirly papers are earners of many 
deadly disease germs, are frequently selected by flies as places of deposit 
for their eggs, are ugly, untidy and in evci-y way oI)jeetionable. 

Dusting. 

As soon as all dust has settled, the room should be carefully dusted. 
Instead of the ordinary dust-brushes, lintless clothes should be used. 
These may be made of flour or sugar sacks, and should be of convenient 
size for the hand. Moisten the cloths with kerosene water, and rub 
carefully the furniture, as well as every other dust-catching surface. 
The kerosene in the water will tend to polish the furniture each time it 
is rubbed, and it serves as a disinfectant and deodorizer, making the 
room unpleasant for flies. After the dusting is completed, wash tha 
dust-cloths in .soap and water, and hang tlicm in the sun to dry. 

Water. 

The drinking water should be kejit in a closed cooler from which it 
may be drawn through a faucet and not in an open vessel exposed to 
dust. If the ordinary cooler cannot be had, a keg with a capacity of 
five or ten gallons may be used. It should be covered at the top and 



24 

have a faucet from which the water may be drawn. A bucket or basin 
should be placed under the faucet to catch all waste water. 

The chOdren should be encouraged to procure individual drinking 
cups for use in the school. A common dipper should be early dispensed 
vrith, as it is a common carrier of disease germs. 

Each child should be encouraged to have his own towel and soap, 
and, instead of the common pan or basin for washing, they should have 
water poured upon the hands. 

The well or spring from which water is supplied to a school should 
be rigidly cleaned and kept free from the surface water which might 
contaminate it. Mud puddles should not be allowed to exist near the 
source of water supply. The well should be covered so that nothing can 
fall into it. 

Yards. 

The school yard should present an example of cleanliness to the 
whole community. A litter of papers about the yard will spoil its 
appearance, no matter how well it may otherwise be kept. Papers may 
easily be picked up with a sharp stick, and placed in the paper pit. The 
children should be required to keep all trash off the grounds and the yards 
should be swept every week. 

Closets. 

Closets, at suitable distances from each other and from the school- 
room, should be kept decent and clean. Lime, ashes, and kerosene oil 
are good disinfectants and deodorants, and should be freely used each 
day to keep the closets in a sanitary condition. 

For specifications for "Sanitary Surface Privy" see Bulletin Geor- 
gia State Board of Health, Vol. 1, No. 3. Address Georgia State Board 
of Health, Atlanta, Ga. Consult also "School Architecture," Department 
of Education, Atlanta, Ga. 

Prevention of the Spreading of Disease. 

When a child is present in school with a suspected case of con- 
tagious disease, such as measles, mumps, chicken-pox, small-pox, whoop- 
ing-cough, sore-eyes, skin disease, or fever of any kind, it is advisable 
lo take him apart from the school at once and ask him to go home until 
a conference may be had with the parents. The teacher should seek this 
conference as early as possible, and ask that a physician be consulted. 
This action should be taken for the good of the school and the whole 
community. 

A child known to be affected with any contagious disease, or exposed 
thereto, should be suspended from school for a certain period of days, 
which period may be definitely learned from any well-informed 
physician. 



25 

TEACHING COOKING IN RURAL SCHOOLS. 

The first, and generally effective, obstacle that confronts the rural 
school teacher when the subject of teaching cooking is suggested, is the 
entire lack of room or equipment. This is usually a greater discourage- 
ment than even a lack of training on the part of (he teacher. However, 
like many of our troubles, it is mainly iraaginai-y. It is the purpose of 
this Bulletin to point an easy solution to the first problem, and to remedy, 
as far as possible, the second. 

The subject of Cooking will be treated under (he following heads: 

1. Wherel Place and equipment. 

2. What? A selection of Foods. Food values and combinations. 

3. Why? A discussion of Dietetics, &c. 

4. How? Simple directions and a few typical receipts. 
.5. Serving. Conventionalities; Menus; &c. 

6. Canning and Preserving. Economy, Thrift, &c. 

1. WHERE? 

(a) At the school; (b) At the homes. 

(a) Under the direct instructions and supervision of the teacher at 
the school, in regular hour jieriods once a week, and at the noon recess or 
other odd times. 

(b) At the homes either in clubs or individually according to sug- 
gestions from the teacher and the mothers, the children affording real 
help in the family daily work, with results reported to the teacher. For 
this some school credits might be given. 

School Equipment: Tiie ordinary school heating stove, a one- 
compartment Fireless Cooker, (cost from $5.00 to $10.00), and, if 
possible, for use during the summer months when the heating stove is 
out. a one-burner oil stove. (Cost about $.5.00.) A great deal can be 
done with the ordinary school heating stove. 

Utensils : Besides the utensils that come with the Tireless Cooker, 
the follo-iving will be needed : Three triangular nested boilers for the 
Fireless Cooker or the heater, (Cost $3.00) ; One oil-stove baker, .$2.00; 
one large dish pan; 1 pie pan; 1 pitcher; 1 grater; 1 qt. coffee pot; 1 
egg beater ; 1 sauce pan ; mufiin pans ; measures ; knife, fork, & spoon ; 
1 wooden spoon. 

If possible let all utensils be of aluminum. 

The above itemized list of utensils is intended only as a minimum re- 
quirement for a school eqnipm.ent. A liberal and first-class home 
kitchen equipment is a source of genuine economy, and should be care- 
fully considered and encouraged. The home kitchen is the most im- 
portant room in the house, and on it depends the physical life, and in 



26 

large measure the spiritual life, of the family. At least as much expense 
should be devoted to beautifying and equipping the home kitchen as 
the home parlor. 

2. WHAT? 

Foods and Food Values. 

The foods needed (u build up :uid sustain the body are divided into 
five classes, each of which lias a special work to do in the body. For 
that reason a proper prt)pnrtion of each class of foods should lie 
])rovided for each meal. 

Five Classes of Foods. 

Source and Use of the Chief Food Constituents. 

1. Proteins. Lean meats; gluten in flour; eggs, milk, cheese, fish, 
beans and peas. Proteins build tissue and repair its daily waste. They 
are especially valuable in bone building. 

2. Fats. Butter, cheese, fats in meats, cream, olive oil, cotton 
seed oil, oil in nuts. Fats give heat and energy and produce fat. 

3. CARBOHYDRATE.S. (a) Sugur: Fruit, cane, beet, maple, malt, 
and honey, (b) Starch: Peas, beans, potatoes, and cereals such as rice, 
corn, wheat, oats, rye and barley. 

Carbohydrates give heat and energy and produce fat. Fats and 
carbohydrates are called fuel foods because they produce heat. 

4. Minerals Salts. Fruit Acids and Vegetables. They aid in 
the formation of bone, help digestion and are useful in the blood. 
Oreens and salads are rich in minerals and should be used freely. 

5. Water. This is found in all foods, but should be used liberally 
in its pure form. It canies food to the blood, carries off waste, helps 
to regulate temperature and is a solvent for food. 

Note : — For a study of the proportionate amount of each element 
required and for a table of Food Values, refer to Farmei's' Bulletin No. 
142. U. S. Dept. of Agriculture, "Principles of Nutrition and Nutritive 
Values." Also to cha])ter on Food and Health, Ritchie's Primer of 
Pliysiologj' ; Home Economics Ciirular, No. 1, Iowa State College of 
Agriculture, Ames, Iowa ; U. S. Dept. of Agr. Bulletin No. 28, "Composi- 
tion of Foods" and to Prof. Murray's "Economy of Nurition," (A. 
B. Co). Dr. Langvvorthy's Food Charts, 1 to 14, may be had for $1.00, 
sent to the Superintendent of Documents, U. S. Dept. of Agriculture. 
These 14 large colored wall charts are invaluable to anv school. 



27 

3. HOW? 

COOKING. 

Weights and Measures. 

Abbreviations: c. means t'up; Isp., (easpoon; tbsp., tablespoon; 4c. 
flour = 1 lb; 2c. sugar = 1 lb.; 2c. butter = 1 lb.; 16 tbsp = 1 c; 2 
tbsp. butter = 1 oz. ; 4 tbsp. flour = 1 m. 

BREAD MAKING. 

Light Bread. 

Scald the milk or boil tlie water to kill any germs that may interfere 
with the action of the yeast. Put the sliortening, salt and sugar into 
the mixing bowl and pour the hot liquid over them. Cool till lukewarm, 
(hot liquid will kill yeast). Soften the yea.st cake in lukewarm water, 
and add to the other liquids. Add flour gradually, stirring with a knife. 
When the dougii is stiff enough to handle, turn out on a floured board 
and knead until soft and elastic, so as to mix thoroughly. Place in a 
buttered bowl, buttering the top of the dough to prevent a dry crust 
from forming. Cover and allow to rise in a warm place until double 
its bulk. Then knead until all gas bubbles are small and evenly dis- 
tributed through the dough. Shape into loaves and biscuits, and place 
in greased pans. Allow it to rise in pans until double its bulk. Bake 
the biscuits 25 to 35 minutes, and the loaves 4.5 to GO minutes in a hot 
oven. Wiien the bread is baked, remove it from the pans and place it on 
a rack to cool. Cover with a clean, thin cloth, but do not wrap. Scald 
the bread box, and when the bread is cold, put il into the box with a 
close fitting cover. 

Receipts for Light Bread. 

Mix and bake according to the above directions. 

1 cup water. 2 tbsp. shortening. 

1 cup milk. 2 tsp. salt. 

2 tbsp. sugar. S^/o cups flour. 
Vi yeast cake. 

Biscuit. 

Batters and doughs are made to rise by adding some material which 
will make bubbles of gas in the mixture. These bubbles are caught in 
little sacs of the gluten in the flour, and when the baking begins, the 
heat causes the imprisoned bubbles to expand, thus making the mixture 
rise.. Pure baking powder is composed of cream of tartar, bi-car- 
bonate of soda, and starch. Cheap baking powders contain alum, and 



28 

are injunous. Good baking powder can be made at home by the 
following receipt : 

214 lbs. cream tartar. 1 lb. bi-carbonate of soda. 

1 to 2 e. flour or corn starch. 

Weigh the materials, mix them, and sift at least seven times. 
Store in tight jars or cans ready for use. 

Baking Powder Biscuits. 

1 i^t. flour. 1/2 tsp. salt. 

4 Isp. baking powder. 2 tbsp. shortening. 

^4 c. milk. 

Mix and sift di'y ingredients. Work in the shortening until the 
mixture resembles fine meal. Add the liquid gradually to make a 
dough as soft as can be handled. Mix with a knife or spoon. Toss 
on a lioured board, and roll until half inch thick. Cut with a floured 
biscuit cutter. Place close together in a greased pan and bake in 
a hot oven until well cooked. Be sure to brown both top and bottom. 
If biscuits are not brown on the bottom when removed from oven, 
place the pan on top of the stove until they are. Never leave the 
middle of the biscuits imperfectly cooked. The crust is the part most 
easily digested. Eating too much crumb, especially rare crumb, will 
cause indigestion. 

Butter Milk Biscuit. 

1 pt. flour. 1 tbsp. shortening. 

1 tsp. salt. % e. buttermilk. 

1 tsp. soda (varying with the 
acidity of the buttermilk.) 

Mix as for baking powder biscuits, making the dough a little 
smoother and stiffer. Roll from 1/4 to 1/2 inch thick, cut and bake as 
before. If biscuits are yellow, use less soda. 

Corn Bread. 

% c. corn meal. % e. boiling water. 

% c. flour. % tbsp. melted butter. 

3 tsp. baking powder. . % tsp. salt. 

1 tbsp. sugar. % c. milk. 

Scald the meal in I/2 c. boiling water. Add milk, dry materials 
sifted together, egg and melted butter. Beat well. Pour into a greased 
pan and bake in a hot oven. 



29 

Wheat Muffins. 

y^c. butter. ^/4 p. butter. 

1 egg. % c. milk. 

ly^ c. flour. 3 tsp. baking powder. 

Cream the butter, add sugar and egg which has been well beaten, 
sift baking powder with Hour, and add to first mixture, alternating with 
milk. Bake in buttered muffin pans until well browned. The baking 
ought to last a half hour. 

Write U. S. Department of Agriculture, Washington, U. C., for 
the following Farmers' Bulletins for further study: No. 298, Food 
Value of Com and Corn Producfs. No. 39,'.), Bread and Bread Making. 

Eggs. 

Eggs .should be washed as soon as l)ri)ughl in. and kept in a cool 
place. Water in which eggs are cooked sliouhl nut Iinil. but should 
be ke])l at a temperature of from ISO" to 160". 
Soft Boiled Eggs. 

(1) Put them into boiling water and immediately remove the pan 
from the stove. They will be cooked in from Ti to 10 minutes. 

(2) Put the eggs into cold water and put ihem on the stove. AVhen 
the water reaches boiling point they are ready to sciTe. The first method 
is the best. 

Hard Boiled Eggs. 

Put the eggs into boiling water and remove the pan immediately to 
the back of stove where it will not boil. Leave for forty five minutes 

Scrambled Eggs. 

1 egg. Vs tsp. salt. 

1 tbsp. milk. . 1-16 tsp. pepper. 
% tsp. butter. 

Beat the egg thoroughlj'. Add salt, pepper, and milk. Melt the 
butter in pan over moderate heat. Pour in the mixture and cook 
slowly, continually scraping from bottom of the pan. When creamy 
turn out on a hot dish and serve at once. 

Omelet. 

4 eggs. 4 tb.sp. milk. 

1/3 tsp. salt. 1/2 tsp. pepper. 

2 tbsp. butter. 

Beat eggs slightly, just enough to blend yolks with the whites, add 
milk and seasonings. Put the butter in a moderately hot pan and when 



30 

melted turn in the mixture. Cook slowly on the top of the stove. 
When evenly brown, fold over and put on a hot dish. Serve at once. 

Fried Eggs. 

Note :' — Don't fry them. * * * * Not wholesome. 

Refer to U. S. Dept. of Agriculture Bulletin No. 128, Eggs and Their 
Uses. Also to Short Course Class Notes No. 4., Iowa State College, 
Ames, Iowa. 

SOUPS. 

I. Cream Soups : 

1. Source of fuel food. 

2. Served with a light meal rather than a heavy meal. 

3. Give an opportunity to use gi'eat variety of vegetables. 

4. Give an opportunity to use fish and oysters. 

5. Give an opportunity to increase food value by adding egg. 

II. Stock Soups: 

1. Clear stock soups are used with heavy meal as an appetizer. 

2. Stock, with the addition of meat and vegetables, gives added 

food value. 

Brown Soup Stock. 

2 lbs. meat (% bone). 2 cloves. 

2 pts. cold water. Vs sweet pepper. 

% tsp. salt. % tsp. sweet herbs. 

G peppercorns. 2 tbsp. each of carrot, onion and 

1 sprig parsley. celery. 

Wipe and cut the meat in inch cubes. "Brown Vs of meat in hot 
fi-j'ing pan in marrow from marrow bone. Put remaining two-thirds 
with bone and fat in soup kettle, add cold water and let stand for 30 
minutes. Place on back of range, add browned meat and heat gradually 
to boiling point. As scum rises it should be removed. Cover and cook 
slowly below boiling point three hours. Add vegetables and seasonings 
ly^ hours before removing stock from stove. Strain and cool as 
quickly as possible. 

Cream of Vegetable Soups (Puree). 

A puree is made by adding the pulp of a cooked vegetable to milk 
or cream. The milk is thickened, (white sauce) with flour or corn starch 
in order to bind the solid and liquid parts of the soup together. 



31 

Cream of Pea Soup. 

2 e. peas. 2 tb.sj). butler. 
1 tsp. sugar. lyo tb.sp. flour. 

3 c. milk. 1 tsp. salt. 

1/4 Isp. mustard. '/2 tsp. pep|ier. 

Drain licpior from ju'as. Rub peas through a sieve. Add seasonings. 
Melt butter, add flour and blend thoroughly. Add milk gradually. Add 
the pea mixture. Cook until it thickens. Strain through a sieve. 

PRINCIPLES OF MEAT COOKERY. 

1. Ileat hardens |)rolein. 
Sear meat to retain Juices. 
Cook slowly to make tender. 

Extract albumen by soaking in cold water. 

2. Heat decomposes fat. 

Cook fats at a low temperature, (bacon, pork chops). 
Remove fat from pan as fast as it fries out of the meat. 

Aims in Cooking Soups. 

1. To exti-act the juices, as in suups, bl'oths and beef teas. 

2. To retain the juices, as in broilingj roasting, boiling and filing. 

3. Combination of both as in stewing and brazing where part of 

the juices are retained and pai-t extracted. 

Amount Required. 

Amount of meat needed by system de])ends ui>on age, occupation, 
climatic conditions and condition of .system. 

Pan Broiled Steak. 

Heat skillet. Scrape steak lightly to remove any pieces of broken 
bones. Wipe with damp cloth. Place steak in liot skillet. Turn from 
side to .side until well seared. Heat platter. IMove to cooler part of 
stove or lower the heat. Cook slowly until pink inside. If the steak 
is more th»B 1 inch thick, cover the skillet after the steak has been 
thoroughly seared. Add salt and pepper jnst before taking from the 
pan. Place on the hot platter. Add lemon sati(»e or plain butter. 
Garnish with .slices of lemon and sprigs of parsley if yon wish. 

Bacon. 

In order to slice bacon very thin, it mast be cold and firm. Cut 
off the rind and tough lower skin, then slice very tbin. Place the 
bacon in skillet and tuin until it is brown. Drain fat from pan as 



32 

fast as it fries out. Do not serve bacon that looks greasy. It 
must be dry. Save the bacon fat for cooking purposes. The bacon 
slices may be put iuto a baking pan, and cooked in the oven. Bacon 
should be thoroughly di'ained before taking to the table. It should be 
crisp and evenly browned. 

Note: Write to U. S. Dept. of Agriculture for Farmers' Bulletin 
No. 391, The Economical Use of Meat in the Home; and No. 31, Meats, 
Composition and Cooking. 

VEGETABLES. 

Vegetables are of great value in the daily diet. 

1. They give muscle-building 4. They give bulk, 
food. 

2. They give fuel food. 5. They give flavor. 

3. They give mineral matter. 6. They give water. 

Suggestions for Cooking. 

1. Allow 1 tsp. salt to 1 quart water. 

2. Use enough water to cover vegetables. 

3. Cook highly flavored vegetalales uncovered. 

4. Cook starchy vegetables in boiling water. 

Refer to U. S. Dept. of Agriculture Farmei-s' Bulletin No. 121, Beans, 
Peas, &c., as Food, also to State College of Agiiculture, Athens, Ga., 
Bulletin No. 6. ' 

General Directions for Making Sauces. 

Put butter in sauce pan or double boiler, stir until melted and bub- 
bling; add flour mixed with seasonings, and stir until thoroughly cooked. 
Gradually pour on the liquid, stirring constantly. Cook until smooth 
and glossy. 

I. Thin White Sauce — White Sauce for Soups. 
1 tbsp flour. y-2. tsp. salt. 

1 tbsp. butter. y% tsp. pepper. 

1 c. hot milk. 

II. Medium White Sauce — White Sauce for Vegetables. 

2 tbsp. flour. 1/2 tsp. salt. 
2 tbsp. butter. % tsp. pepper. 
1 c. hot milk. 

III. Thick White Sauce — White Sauce for Croquettes. 
4 tbsp. flour. 1 tsp. salt. 

4 tbsp. butter. Vs tsp. pepper. 

1 c. hot milk. 



33 

Gravy. 

4 tbsp. flour. 1 tsp. salt. 

4 tbsp. fat. ^/4 tsp. pepper. 

2 c. stock. 

Lemon Sauce for Fish. 

3 tbsp. flour. 1^ tsp. salt. 

5 tbsp. butter. Ys tsp. pepper. 

11/2 c. water. 2 tbsp. lemon juice. 

(Follow directions for making sauces). 

FRUITS. 

Fruits fumisb real food values in the fonn of carbohydrates, 
protein, mineral matter, and water. They relieve thirst and help to 
remove waste because of their high per cent of water. Through the 
organic salts in them they improve the quality of the blood and prevent 
the acidity of the urine. They are laxative and prevent constipation. 
They stimulate the appetite, aid digestion, and give value to the diet. 
They are among the most important, as well as cheapest, foods, and 
should form a part of every meal, especially of breakfast. Most fruits 
are also very helpful eaten late at night. 

Baked Apples. 

(1) Pare and core the apples, fill the cores with sugar, dot some 
butter over the apples, put in a pan with a little water, and bake slowly 
but well. 

(2) Wash the apples well, stick some holes in the skin, put them 
in a pan with about an inch of water and bake for an hour or an hour 
and a half. 

Apple Tapioca Pudding. 

6 sour apples. 1/2 c. sugar. 

1 qt. boiling water. I/2 tsp. salt. 

1 0. pearl tapioca. 1 tsp. cinnamon. 

Soak tapioca four hours in cold water. Drain and cook in salted 
boiling water until soft and transparent. Pare and core the apples and 
arrange in a baking dish. Fill the cavities with sugar and spice, mixed 
together. Cover the apples with the tapioca. Bake slowly until tender, 
Serve hot with cream and sugar. 



M 



Apple Sauce. 

8 apples. 1 c. water. 

1 e. sugar. ^/s tsp. cinnamon. 

Wipe, pare and core apples. Mi.x water and sugar and boil 5 
minutes. Add apple.s and cook until lender. Add cinnamon. 

Apple Snow. 

3 egg whites. % e. apple pulp. 

1 tbsp. lemon juice. 3 tbsp. sugar. 

Pare, quarter and core 4 sour apples, place on a plate and cook in 
a steamer, over hot water, until soft. Press through a sieve and add 
sugar and lemon juice. Add lieaten egg white. Pile in a glass dish 
and serve with red jelly. 

Note: For a study of Fruits as Food see "Short Course Class 
Notes No. 13," Iowa State College, Ames, Iowa. 

MENUS FOR RURAL SCHOOL CHILDREN. 



Beeakiwst. 


Dinner. 


Supper. 


Fruit. 


Chicken or ham 


Soup (light). 


Cereal. 


sandwich. 


Rice, with cream and 


Eggs. 


Potatoes (boiled 


sugar. 


Bread. 


or baked). 


Bread and butter. 


Butter. 


Vegetables (beans. 


Syrup. 


Syrup. 


peas etc.) 


Stewed fruit. 


Milk. 


Fruits or melon. 
Light pudding or 
cake. 


Light cake and milk. 



(Serve dinners on tables in the grove, either together or in parties, 
under supervision and instructions of the teacher). 

Note: Menus should vai-y but be always intelligently planned. 
Hot soups, as a result of the teaching, may occasionally be served for 
dinner. The dinner service should occupy a definite period during the 
noon recess, not less than twenty minutes, and should be orderly. Children 
should not be allowed to bolt their food. Cleanliness, proper behavior, 
and good manners should be insisted upon, and due credits should be 
given for the same. 



35 



MENUS FOR THE FAMILY. 
Tuesday — A Summer Day. 

Breakfast. Dinner. Supper. 

Berries and cream. Corn soup. Cold chicken. 



Cora nuish, with milk 
Breakfast bacon 

and eggs. 
Toast. 

Coffee and milk. 
(Milk for children.) 



Breakfast. 
Apple sauce. 
Rice, with milk and 

sugar. 
Fried chicken. 
Wheat muffins. 
Coffee and milk. 
(Milk for children.) 



Breakfast. 
Canned berries 
Oatmeal and cream 
Bacon strips and 

eggs. 
Toast. 
Butter. 
Coffee or milk. 



Stewed chicken. 
Irish potatoes. 
Corn bread. 
Snap Beans. 
Sliced tomatoes, 

with dressing. 
Baked apples, with 

sugar and cream. 

Wednesday. 

Dinner. 
Cream of tomato soup. 
Boiled ham. 
Candied sweet 

potatoes 
Cabbage. 
BeiTy pudding, with 

sauce. 

A Winter Day. 

Dinner. 

Tomato soup. 

Chicken pie. 

Baked Irish potatoes 

Turnip greens, 
(boiled with small 
piece of bacon). 

Stewed tomatoes. 

Canned peaches and 
cake. 



Cold bread and butter 

Milk. 

Peaches and cream. 



Supper. 
Cold ham cut in thin 

slices. 
Cold bread and butter 
Berries and cream. 
Milk. 



Supper. 
Egg and cheese omelet. 
Bread and butter. 
Preserves. 
Milk. 



36 

Serving. 

It is said that the difference in the food of the rich and the poor 
lies chiefly in the cooking and serving. 

No meal is a success unless the linen is clean, the table neatly set, 
and the food properly served. One of the most valuable among the 
early housekeeping lessons is the art of table setting, and should be 
mastered by every child of ten. It should be taught thoroughly and 
systematically through definite instructions and careful supervision. 

Table Setting. 

In setting the table, first cover it with a silence cloth, intended to 
protect a polished table, to prevent noise, and to save the table cloth 
from wear. The table cloth should be of good linen or cotton, plain, 
small figures preferred, large enough to cover the table and fall from 
ten to twelve inches below its edge. Teach a child to lay the 
cloth absolutely straight, leaving the margin perfectly even on all 
sides. The child who learns to lay the cloth properly, forms a habit 
that will continue through life. One of the chief elements of success 
consists in the care with which the dishes are placed on the table. The 
same principles hold true, whether the meal is a simple or elaborate 
affair. Give definite instructions, first with regard to the placing of 
the silver. Place each piece so that the end is one inch from the edge 
of the table, and the pieces absolutely parallel with one another. Place 
the knives and spoons at the right of the plate, and the fork at the left, 
and in the order in which they are to be used (an oyster fork should be 
at the right). The knife blade should be turned towards the plate and 
the tines of the fork upwards. The glass should be at the tip of the 
knife, the napkin at the left of the fork, one inch from the edge of the 
table. The scrap plate and the individual butter should be just above the 
napkin. The coffee pot and cups are placed at the right of the hostess, 
and the sugar and cream in front. 

Flowers add much good cheer to the table, and for them, a 
low dish is generally preferable to a high vase. 

Serving Meals. 

Teach children to wait upon the table, and do it well. This lesson 
not only makes them useful, but teaches them to be more unselfish and 
considerate of the comfort of others. In serving a meal the chief thing 
to keep in mind is simplicity and comfort rather than display and 
effect. Assign reasons for rules, and fix a few principles firmly in the 
mind. First, if the child is to place the food in position beside the guest, 
tell him to pass to right of the guest and place the food at the guest's 
right hand. If it is food from which the guest is to help himself, tell thg 



37 

child to pass to tke guest's left hand, so that the gnest can use his right 
hand. Caution the child to lower the dish within easy reach when 
passing the food, and to pass to the right to remove dishes from the 
table. If a dinner is to be served in courses, have nothing 
on the table when the guests are seated except the center decorations, 
glasses, and bread and butter plates. There may also be a place plate 
if a plate is to be used. If the first course is to be sonp, it may be 
placed on this plate, and the plate may be removed after the soup 
course. Olives, or nuts, or pickles may be on the table before sei-ving 
the first course and remain until the end. In general, remove everything 
from the table which pertains to the course just served before the next 
course is served. The successful dinner depends upon quality 
rather than quantity, and much upon the good fellowship which attends 
the meal. Let the meal 1)0 a rest time, where eleanliness, good taste, 
good simple food, harmony and good manners prevail. 

Dishwashing. 

Scrape all the food from the dishes and rinse them. Pile all of 
dishes of one kind together. Soak in eold water the dishes that have 
been used for milk, egg's, or starchy foods; soak those used for sugary 
substances in hot water. Wipe gi'casy dishes with paper, and then soak 
them in hot water. Clean off the table well, and do not begin to wash 
until everything is ready. Wash dishes in the following order: glass- 
ware, silver-ware, cups and saucers, plates, general dishes. Wash in 
hot, soapy water: rinse in hot, clear water. Do not allow soap to soak 
in the dishwater. Wipe the dishes after draining, with clean, dry 
towels. Do not pour boiling water over glassware. Place tumblers 
side down in the dishwater. Do not allow wood, bone, ivory, rubber, or 
pearl handles to soak in water. Do not continue to wash in dirty water. 
Change it when it becomes dirty. 

Kettles and pans should have water put in Ihem as soon as empty 
after cooking. Do not use a knife or coaree scouring soap to clean 
enameled ware. 

Clear up as you work, putting soiled utensils of a kind together 
and putting them in soak until ready to wash them. Put away all 
materials and utensils in their proper places. Leave everything you 
have used clean, and the room in perfect order. 

Canning and Preserving. 

The "high cost of living," so much complained of, can be reduced 
materially on the farm at least by canning and preserving fruits, 
vegetables, and other foods. We probably waste, or allow to go to 



33 

waste, nearly enough to live upon. Thrift and econemy are matters of 
education and training. Too much attention can hardly be given to the 
conservation and preservation of food stuffs. Give careful study to 
the Pure Food Laws of the State and nation. Copies of these may 
be had free by writing the Dept. of Agriculture. For further studies 
get the following free Bulletins: From The State Agricultural College, 
Athens, Ga. : The Canning of Fruits and Vegetables, Bulletin No. 191 ; 
Girls' Club Work in Georgia, Bulletin No. 6. From U. S. Department 
of Agriculture, Washington, D. C. : Canning Vegetables in the Home, 
Farmers' Bulletin No. 359; Canned Fruit, Preserves and Jellies, Far- 
mers' Bulletin No. 203; Canning Peaches on the Farm, Farmers' 
Bulletin No. 426. 

This treatment of cooking has been veiy largely selected and adapted 
from the Bulletins of The Iowa State College of Agriculture, but 
thanks are also due to Hampton Institute, for permission to use its 
bulletins from which some extracts were made. Some valuable receipts 
were copied from them. Extracts were also made from "Lessons in 
Cooking and Sewing for Virginia School Girls." 



3il 

SEWING. 

It is an error to suppose that all girls are taught sewing at home. 
Soma of them are, but the majority never learn. Those who can sew 
well should be employed in helping and directing the younger girls in 
the school sewing. If any mothers in the neighborhood are particu- 
larly skilled in sewing they should be induced to come to the school and 
help in teaching the cliildren. Under present conditions, there should 
not be more than one sewing period a week to which the teacher gives 
her time, but the girls should be accustomed to sew as seat work when 
all the book lessons have been learned, or when they are too tired to 
study. They can frequently begin a piece of work at school, and finish 
it at home. The teacher should enlist the co-operation of parents and 
excite emulation among the children by exhibits, honors, etc. It is not 
only unnecessary, but inadvisable, to have children learn to sew on 
samplers or to make sewing books. Let them make something to use or 
wear from the veiy beginning. The use of a little good judgment in 
the selection of articles to make will prevent an appreciable waste of 
material, but even though waste of something is necessary, it would 
better be cloth than the child's interest or energy. The sampler and 
the serving book are frequently so exhaustively and exhaustingiy done 
that they are the beginning and the end of the child's sewing. 

Tools : Needles, thread, scissors, tape measure, thimble and emery 
ball. 

General Suggestions for Sewing. 

Sit in an erect position. Choose an aluminum or celluloid thimble 
that fits the second tinger of the right hand and always wear it while 
sewing. Never sew without it. Use a short thread. Make the stitches 
small and even. Keep a pair of sharp scissors, which are used for 
nothing else. Choose thread and needle to suit the kind of cloth used, 
Finish all raw edges on the wrong side of the garment. Always make 
the wrong side look as neat as possible. Anything worth doing at all is 
worth doing well, so all sewing should be done carefully. 

Basting. 

Basting is loose sewing, with loose stitches used as a guide for 
sewing and holding cloth in place. The more carefully the basting is 
done the less the sewing will need be ripped and done over. 

Even Basting. 

In this, the stitch and the space between are of the same length. It 
is strong, and is used for seams in a tight garment. 



40 

Uneven Basting. 

In this the stitch is long, and the space between the stitches short. 
This basting is not strong, and is only used to hold two pieces of cloth 
ill place while being sewed. 

Back Stitch. 

Take one short stitch. Begin the second stitch in the middle of the 
first. Extend it to one-half the length of the first stitch. Begin the 
third stitch in the middle of the second, and proceed as before. This 
should be used in a seam that is required to bear some strain. 

Running Stitch. 

Place the two edges of the cloth evenly together. Baste with uneven 
basting one-fourth inch from the edge of the cloth. Take one short 
stitch at the right edge of the cloth and just above the basting. Draw 
the thread through this three times so as to fasten the end. Take up 
three even stitches on the needle and pull the thread through the cloth, 
but not so tight that the cloth will be gathered. Continue the seam, 
taking three stitches on the needle each time and keeping the stitches 
in a perfectly straight line. To fasten the end of the thread, sew over 
the last stitch three times and cut the thread. Do not break it. 

This stitch is used in joining two pieces of cloth that will not have 
much strain, for making tucks, and for gathering cloth. 

Practice. 

1. Sew the seams in a straight apron. 

2. Gather the apron at the top. 

3. Sew the seams in an underskirt. 

4. Tuck the underskirt. 

Seams. 

1. Overhand Seam. 

Hold the edges firmly between the thumb and finger of the left 
hand. Take up two threads of the selvage with the needle, and pull 
the needle straight toward you, drawing the thread firmly. Take small 
stitches and keep them even. This is used for selvage edges. 

2. French Seam. 

Turn the seam to the right side of the garment. Trim the frayed 
edges. Sew the seam one-fourth of an inch from the edge. Turn the 
seam and press the edges firmly on the wrong side. Baste the cloth 
evenly on the wrong side, and just below the edges of the seam. Turn 
the cloth on the right side and press the seam firmly with a thumb and 



41 

finger. Be careful that the frayed edges of the seam do not show 
on the right side. This is the best seam to use for shirt waists, under- 
wear, or straight seams in cotton dresses. 

3. Felled Seam. 

Place the edges of the cloth together evenly. Begin at the right and 
make the seam one-third of an inch wide. When you have finished 
sewing the seam, trim the under edge until it is one-fourth of an inch 
wide. Fold the upper edge unto it is just wide enough to cover the 
under edge. Press the upper edge down firmly and hem to the garment 
with small even stitches. 

Practice. 

1. Make a pillow case. 

2. Use the French seam on undenvear. 

3. Use it on a cotton dress. 

4. Make a cooking apron. 

5. Use the felled seam on a corset cover. 

Hemming. 

To Fold: Turn the raw edge of the cloth over just one-fourth of 
an inch. To do this, begin at the right edge, taking the folded edge 
between the thumb and finger of the right hand, and laying the fold with 
the left hand. Lay the folded edge in plaits, and pinch between the 
thumb of the right hand and first finger of the left hand. Hold the 
folded plaits between the thumb and finger of the right hand, and 
pinch them hard, to hold the folded edge in place. 

To Make the Second Fold: To make a one inch hem, cut a strip 
of stiff paper one inch wide and three inches long. Measure down 
from the folded edge the width of this paper. Make a turn in the 
cloth, and make a crease in the new folded edge. Continue to make 
this fold, and hold it in place with the thumb and finger as you did for 
the first fold. Be sure to use the paper measure as a guide. Baste 
the edge in place with uneven basting. 

To Sew the Hem: Hold the hem over the first finger of the left 
hand. Hold it in place with the thumb and second finger. Push the 
needle through one thread of the under part of the hem, and then in a 
slanting position through the edge of the upper part of the hem and 
pull the thread through. Keep all of the stitches slanting, and keep 
them parallel with each other. Be sure not to puU the thread tight 
enough to gather the cloth. 



42 
French Hem. 

To Fold: Fold the cloth to the wrong side, make a fold one-fourth 
of an inch wide, and jiress it firmly until the edge is well creased. 

To Make the Second Fold: Measure down from the folded edge 
three-fourths of an inch, turn the hem to the wrong side of the cloth 
and make a crease at the one-fourth inch mark. 

To Make the Third Fold: Fold the entire hem back toward the 
right side of the cloth and crease at the lower fold. 

To Sew the Hem : Take up one thread of each folded edge and pull 
the needle straight toward the chest. Keep the .stitches parallel and 
do not draw them firmly enough to gather the cloth. If the work is 
well df)ne the stitches will be almost invisible. This hem is good to use 
on table linen. 

Rolled Hem. 

To Fold: Hold the raw edge of the cloth firmly between the thumb 
and finger of the left hand and by moving the thumb make a small roll 
along the edge of the cloth. After one inch has been rolled begin to 
sew, keeping the roll small and even. 

To Sew the Hem^ Use a No. 9 needle and a No. 90 thread. Insert 
the needle into the under side of the roll, taking up only one thread 
and push it through the upper side, taking again only one thread. 
Continue stitch by stitch making the stitches even and taking up as 
little cloth as possible on each stitch. The roll should be small, firm 
and round. 

Practice. 

1. Hem an underskirt, a cooking apron, and a gingham dress, with 
a plain hem. 

2. Hem table napkins with the French hem. 

3. Hem a muslin niffle with a rolled hem. 

Ornamental Stitches. 

Outline Stitch : Hold the thread over the left forefinger and work 
/rom you. Keep the thread downwards under the tliuniD, and to the 
right of the needle. Bring the needle through to the right side of the 
material at the lower end of a traced line. Take a long stitch ahead on 
the traced line and a short stitch back through the material. Continue 
in this way. being careful not to draw the stitches tighter than the 
cloth. 



43 





Making the Outline Stitch. 



Making the Chain Stitch. 



This stitch is used for outlining solid embroidery and for making 
simple designs. 

Chain Stitch. 

Hold the material across the forefinger of the left hand. Work 
towards you with the needle pointing toward the chest. Draw the 
needle through to the right side of the material, holding the thread 
under the left thumb. Reinsert the needle in the same place from 
which it came out. Bring it through one-eighth of an inch below and 
over the thread to form a loop. Continue in this manner, taking one 
stitch below the other, keeping the stitches vertical and regular. This 
is used on towels, face cloths, bags, underclothing, and for marking linen. 

Blanket Stitch. 

Begin at the left hand corner, and work from left to right, holding 
the edge of the material toward you. Insert the needle one-eighth to 
one-fourth of an inch from each edge, and take two or three small run- 
ning stitches to the edge. Fasten the stitch by making a backward 
stitch over the last running stitch. Hold the thread under the thumb 
of the left hand and insert the needle again in the same jilace. Draw it 
through and make a loop over the thread as in the figure. 




sSa 


111 ll 


1' 



J\Iai.;ing the Blanket Stitch. A Variation in Blanket Stitch. 

Take the next stitch by holding the thread down wth the thumb. 
Insert the needle at the same height as the last stitch and as far to the 
left as desired. Draw the needle through the cloth and over the thread 
lo make the loop. Continue the stitches at the same height and same 
distance apart. To turn the corner neatly, take three stitches in the 
same hole. To fasten the thread, take two or three running stitches 
under the last upright stitch with one back stitch and cut it off. To 
begin with a new thread put the needle under the last stitch as in 
beginning the work, bring the lu'w thread through the loop, and pro- 
ceed as before. This is used to finish and decorate the raw edges of 
flannel or woolen material which is too thick to hem or fold well. 

French Knots. 

Hold the material over the left forefinger, and bring the needle 
up from the wrong side at the place desired for the knot. Take a small 
back stitch, leaving the needle half way through the material. Take the 
thread where it comes through the material, and wind it three or more 
times around the needle. Hold this coil of thread on the needle under 
the left thumb and draw the needle slowly through the coil. Then 
insert the needle where it was inserted for the back stitch. Bring the 
needle through the material where the next stitch is to be, and continue 
as before. This is under on underclothing, wash waists, fancy neckwear, 
linen table pieces, and sofa pillows. A light blue or pink linen dress 
mav be decorated with a row of white linen French knots. 





45 
Feather Stitching. 




This is used ou sul'Ii arlicles as iiiiileicldlliint;, jabols, collars, aprons, 
fancy bags, dust cloths, traveling cases, bureau scarfs, etc. 

Button-Holes. 

To Cut the Button-Hole : If the button is flat, the button-hole 
should be as long as the button is wide. Measure the width of the 
button on a slip of paper. Cut the paper at your measure. Place this 
paper on a double fold of cloth, parallel with the upper edge, and one- 
fourth inch from the side of the cloth. Place a pin at each end of 
upper edge of the paper. Fold the cloth from one pin to the other. 
Place the sharp point of the scissors in the pin hole which is farthest 
to the right. Cut slowly along the fold till you reach the pin which is 
nearest the edge of the cloth 

To Begin the Button-Hole: The first step is to place a bar around 
the edge of the button-hole in order to strengthen the button-hole and 
to act as a guide when you are tiding to get your stitches even. 
Place the button-hole over the fii-st finger of your left hand, holding it 
horizontally in place with the thumb and second finger. To begin the 
bar, insert the needle through the right end of the button-hole being 
careful to hold the needle at right angles with the hole. This stitch 
should be one-eighth of an inch above or below the button-hole. Turn 
the button-hole so that the left end is held over the first finger of the 
left hand. Insert the needle through the left end, keeping the stitch 
just even with the stitch at the right end. Pull the thread until it is 
smooth but leave two inches of it hanging loose from the right end of 
the button-hole. Turn the button-hole again, and hold it so that its right 



46 

end is held over the first finger of the left hand. Take this stitch 
through exactly the same holes as you did the first stitch. 

To Work the Buttoti-Hole: Place the button-hole so that the right 
end is held over the first finger of the left hand, holding it in place 
with the thumb and second finger. Place the needle close to the righ^ 
edge of the button-hole, keeping it at right angles with the hole. Take 
one stitch just long enough to cover the bar. Take hold of the thread 
from the eye of the needle, and pass that around the point of the 
needle from the right. Pull the thread into place so that it will be just 
as tight as the cloth, but no tighter. Take the second stitch exactly 
the .same distance from the edge as the firet and as close to the first 
as you can get it. Continue until I lie lower edge is covered. 

To Turn the Curve : This will decide whether the button-hole is 
good or poor. The third stitch must be exactly parallel with the edge 
of the button-hole and half way between the upper and lower edge. 
The first and second stitches divide the space between the third and 
lower edge of the button-hole into exactly three equal parts. The 
fourth and fifth stitches correspond exactly with the second and first. 

To Make the Upper Edge : Turn the button-hole so that the left 
end is over the firet finger of your left hand, thus placing the unworked 
edge at the bottom. Work this edge in exactly the same way as the 
lower edge. Make the turn as before. 

To Fasten the Thread: Turn the button-hole to the wrong side. 
Pull the needle and thread through to the wrong side. Take four short 
firm stitches through the lower fold of the cloth. Place the thread 
around the needle once. Pull the needle up through that loop and cut 
the thread. Cut also the loose end cjf tliread that was left on the upper 
edge. 

To Sew on the Button. 

Place the button one-half inch from the edge of the band. The 
button will be less apt to pull off and pull a part of the cloth with it 
if it is fastened to the cloth loosely. To do that place two pins across 
the bottom as shown in the picture. 




Select a needle that is right for No. 40 thread. Double the thread 
and place a firm knot at the end. Pass the needle through the button 



47 

at 1. I'lill tLe thread ui( llirougli 3 ami down llircju.i;h 4. Coutiuue iu 
this regular order until Ibe holes are full of thread. Take four fiiin 
stitches through the bunch of threads at the under side of the cloth 
and pull the needle tirmly through (he thread. Cut the thread close to 
the cloth. 

Care of Clothing. 

1. Never wear a garment that lacks a butlon. 2. Never wear a 
garment that is ripped. The ripped place will ravel and be hard to 
mend if it is not sewed at once. 3. Never wear a gai'ment with hooks and 
eyes lacking. 4. Never wear a garment which is torn. Mend it as 
as soon as you can find a needle and thread. The torn edges will soon 
ravel, be unsightly and hard to mend. o. Never allow stains to remain 
on garments without tiying to remove them. 



48 

Darning. 

Trim the frayed out edges. Kuii your thread across the opening to 
take the place of the warp. When all the threads have been run take 
three small stitches in the edg'e of the cloth, placing the hole over some 
hard body such as a darning ball, and hold it so that the hole will 
not be stretched out of shape. Take three small stitches opposite the 
first three, and draw the third as tight as the tiret warp thread was 
drawn. Place thread after thread in this way, until the hole is covered 
with warp thread being careful to keep the threads close to each other 
and to take the begiuning stitches at equal distances from the edge. 
To fill in the woof threads, take three small stitches at the side of the 
hole nearest the last warj) thread. Slip the needle under the first warp 
thread, over the second, under the third, over the fourth, working all 
the way across the hole in this way. Take three small stitches in the 
opposite side. Turn the work and go back in the same way. Be careful 
to keep the warp threads close together so lliat (he darning will bo 
firm and solid. 







-"*«>^. - ,v ■» V : 



49 



Overhand Patching. 

If the garment has a ragged tear like the one in the picture, cut the 




elotli until you have a perfectly square hole, as shown in the next piiMure. 



ii .!• 1' .; n ':■ \l U li i( 






",^'«XlZIS}>t^ 




Make a diagonal cut in each corner onc-ljalf inch in lenglh as in the 
picture. Turn each edge of the square hole to the wrong side, making 
the width of the hole equal to the length of the diagonal cuts in the 
comer. Cut a square patch that is one inch larger than the hole after 



50 



the fold has been made on each edge. Make a one-half inch fold on 
each edge of the patch. Turn the garment to the wrong side, fit the 
upper left corner of the patch into the upper left corner of the hole, 
holding that corner of the patch firmly in place with the thumb and 
finger of the left hand. Be careful to make the upper right corner 
of the patch to exactly fit the upper right corner of the square hole. 
Work with overhand stitch until the patch is sewed in place. Overcast 
all of (he raw edges. 



«i»31 

» 9 mt c 


ft m tmt \ ^ 

ia««t 









JSSI-i «t«-~jt ,»*§». ^ *|r2|( 

itaisiuj:M(«jJ! itflifi n-iM 



* !. 



^ -E -w ~ ^*<-j:f- 






9 « .^m f ». 



f * . . 




UHh.N rllE 1I-,AK IS I'Kdl-KUI.I I'A IX'UEU. 

This work is mainly composed of selections from the various excel- 
lent bulletins of the Iowa State College of Agriculture. Thanks are 
also due this institution for the loan of the cuts from which the illus- 
trations are made. For some of the opinions expressed, however, the 
Iowa State College is in no way responsible. 



51 



MANUAL TRAINING. 



In the following ontlinc for nuunial training, llie atlenipt has been 
made to suggest only such work as can be done in a school of from one 
to three teachers with very small equipment. Much of it has been 
actually done in a school of one teacher and seven grades, with impro- 
vised material and borrowed tools. 

The dominant pui-pose in all the work is to make tlie school react 
upon the home, and to vitalize the usual school studies by connecting 
them with manual activities. Much of this work can be done by tba 
children as seat work between the recitations and late in the afternoons 
when they are too tired for book woik. Some of it can lie begun in the 
school and finished at home. 

Sand Work. 

Have three or four wagon loads of clean sand put into the school 
yard. Tell the little children stories and have them illustrate the stories 
in sand forms. Have older children make forms of land and wat^r. 
Have the children bring box tops, fill them with sand, and set up 
scenes, such as Indian, Esquimaux, and Japanese villages. Have sand 
table for geography and history. 

Weaving. 

Have older children make wooden looms as follows : Get 40 inches 
of lumber one inch wide and one-half inch thick, cut this into two 
twelve-inch and two eight-inch strips, nail the eight-inch over the 
twelve-inch and two eight-inch strips. Nail the eight-inch over the 
twelve-inch strips. 






f^ ^ 4-f pr e ( 

Loom. 

Drive headless tacks one eighth of an inch apart across the eight-inch 
strips, taking care that there are pairs of tacks opposite each other. (Use 
ruler). Get heavy cord and tie from tack to opposite tack. This gives 
the warp for the rug. For a shuttle, take a piece of wood 10 inches 



52 



long, one inch wide, and as thin as possible, bore a hole in one end 
large enough to admit very coarse wool, jute, or strips of cloth. When 
threaded, pass the other end under one thread of the warp and over 
another, entirely across the loom. Di'aw the filling through and beat it 
in place with a piece of wood, similar to the shuttle, which has been 
previously passed in as the shuttle was, at the lower end of the loom. 
Very crude looms for the little children may be made of chalk boxes, 
using the dovetailing instead of tacks. 




Let the children weave rugs for doll-hoases and iron-holders, pan- 
holders, mats, etc., for their homes. In some schools, looms six feet by 
three feet have been used to weave actual rugs for the school and 
home. Kags can be stripped up, sewed together and dyed for the 
filling. Hanks of jute can be bought from Milton Bradley Company, 
Atlanta, Ga., at forty cents per pound, one pound weaving at least 
twenty small rugs. 



53 



Tlie 1(111111 holow is simiL'wluil imui' rlabunile tliiiii (lie simple one dc- 
scribccl, Iml the childron I'Mii ciisilv iiiiiki' il. 



© 





■ '"M«^w«-«**»r" 



■«i«sa 



A Lai;li-l;uak]j I.ikjm and IIouili:. A Carpet-yarn* Rug. 



54 

Paper and Cardboard Work. 

Give the cbildreu colored paper and without allowing them to draw 
outlines, have them tear out free-hand figures, such as trees, houses, 
human forms, etc. Have them combine these in a picture and paste 
on a neutral tinted back-ground of card-board. 




Paper Cutting. 

Have each child liiiiig a jiair of scissors to school, and cut paper 
free-hand, for a similar pm-pose. Get from old magazines, pages with 
pictures, and have the younger children cut these out and carefully 
combine them in new pictures. Let them cut out and dress paper dolls. 




55 

Paper Folding. 

Have children fold drinking cujis, candy boxes, cornucopias, flower 
baskets, lamp lighters, etc. 

Cardboard Construction. 

Have older children to make scrap-baskets, lamp-shades, work- 
baskets, etc. Have younger children make card-board furniture. 

Toy Lantern. 

Material — Heavy paper. 

Cut a 6-inch square. Paste bands of black paper % of an inch 
wide across the top and bottom of the square. Fold the top to meet 
the bottom with the bands of black outside. Crease. Beginning on the 
crease make cuts about % of an inch apart from the crease to the black 
paper. Paste the ends of the bands of black together to form the top 
and bottom of the lantern. Cut a sti-ip of black x % inches for the 
handle and paste it across the toji of the lantern. 




Doll's Bureau. 

Take a square of heavy paper Sx8 inches. Fold this into sixteen 
squares, then cut and paste into a square box 4x4 mches and 2 inches 
high. For the drawers take two pieces of paper 6x8 inches and 
fold each into twelve squares. Cut and paste each into an oblong box 
2x2x4 inches. If you choose, paste a handle upon each drawer. Put 
these into the square box, and for the back cut an oblong 4x7 inches. 
Paste this upon the back and upon the 3 inches that come above the 
bureau. Cut slits and bend the top forward to represent the looking- 
glass, or paste silver paper upon the back, in the form you wish the 
glass. 



56 




Doll's Chair. 

Material — Heavy folding pajier. 

Cut a 6-inch square. Fold this into nine 2-incli squares. Cut across 
the top of the lower right square, also the lower left square. Find the 
square in the middle of the top row and cut across both the right and 
the left sides. Fold this square up towards you for the back of the 
chair. Fold the remaining squares into the shape of a cube and paste 
them together. Now cut an oblong 2x4 inches and paste on the back 
of the chair, to strengthen it. At the top of the back of the chair cut 
out a small oblong, as an ornament. 

At the bottom, beginning about % of an inch from each corner, 
cut an oblong about 1 inch high, to form the legs of the chair. 

Doll's Table. 

Take an 8-inch square of heavy paper. Fold it into sixteen 2-inch 
squares. Cut across the top of the lower right squai-e, also the lower 
left square. Cut across the bottom of the upper right square, also the 
upper left square. Fold into box form and paste. Use the bottom of 
the box for the top of the table and at the bottom of each side, beginning 
Vo of an inch from the corner, cut an oblong about 3 inches by 1 inch. 
This will make the opening between the legs of the table. 



57 



DRAWING. 

I Mechanical Drawing. 

(1) Plans for farm-house, gardens and outhouses. A suggestive 
plan is given below, but the children will make far simpler ones. They 
must be allowed as much spontaneity as possible. Arouse some comije- 
tition and attach honor to best plan. As a preliminary to this exercise, 
discuss each plan with the children with regard to health, convenience, 
and beauty. 

PLA>r roR Farmhouse and Grounds. 



U'!?'A-^™-^ 



GBOWVPJ « -w 

THE jmTE VIFT 
or tPVCATIONrf 




(2) Plans for a vegetable garden. For illustration, see "Children's 
Home Gardens." 



58 



(3) Floor plans for farm homes. 




Flook Plav fob Faemhouse. 



Discuss with the children (he exposure to light and air; the arrange- 
ment of rooms with reference to health, comfort, convenience and 
beauty. Have them make plans for houses of from two to seven rooms. 
Arouse competition, and attach honor as before. 



(4) Plans for flower gardens. 



59 



Plan for a Five Acre School Ground. 

(5) Plans for the aiTangement of furuiture in bed room, dining 
room, and kitchen. 

Discuss with children suitable furniture and the an-angement of it 
with reference to convenience, comfort, and beauty. In planning the 
dining room and kitchen discuss arrangements for saving steps and 
labor. Have children plan compact kitchen with all conveniences pos- 
sible to a farm home. Attach especial honor to best plans. 

(6) Plans for school and suiToimdings similar to those for homes. 

(7) Floor plans for school similar to floor jilans for a home. 

(8) Designs for rustic fences, trellises for vines, summer houses, 
arboi-s, etc. 



fin 

(9) Have working drawings made for all wood work. 

II Free Hand Drawing, Color Work, and Design. 

1. Drawing with crayola, crayograph, pastello, charcoal, or pencil, 
of common ohject-s, snoli as flowei-s, frnits, simple landscapes, boxes, 
vases, etc. 



e 






'^ 




Cotton Boll. 



61 



It is not necessai-y for the teacher to show the pupil exactly how to 
do this. No drawing should he made on the board for the children to 
imitate, nor should flat pictures be given them to copy. The teacher 
should place in view the object, and tell them In draw if, giving sug- 
gestions from time to time as to methods. 

2. Illustrations of stories and scenes described iu literal ure, on the 
board, or on paper, with crayola, common chalk or pencil. 

3. Drawing of farm implements and household conveniences. 

4. Designs for rugs, wall paper, fabrics, book eovei-s, calendars, 
Thanksgiving, Christmas, and Easter cards, \alentines, posters, adver- 
tisements, color schemes for the interior of rooms, and painting and 
staining on wood. 

October rAi.KN'r)Ai;. 




OCTOBER 






15 16 It 18 19 



'9 50 31 



■-£.-" 9Zi-i.^^.\. 




r 




BOOK COVER. 



EASTER CARD 




CHRISTMAS PICTURE. 



63 

In this work, the older children can use water colors which may be 
bought for five cents per box, or one of the many kinds of colored 
crayons to be had at five cents per package. 

The color scheme for the walls of a room may be a simple rectangle 
with lines bounding tlie picture moulding and wamseoating. For 
jiainting or staining on dressed v.'nod, the children may be asked to 
bring scraps of dressed lumber from their homes, and these may be 
sawed into such shapes as desired. The painting meant is simply house 
or implement painting. For the staining, a.sk the children to bring 
common laths, shingles or other undressed lumber and teach them to treat 
with creosote stains. 

Have the children make a collection of all the hard woods in the 
neighboi'hood, and polish and stain on cross sections so as to bring out 
the gi-ain. 

Ill Book Making. 

1. Select sheets of paper, the proper size and number, measure 
the length and breadth of these, draw on gray or brown card-board 
a rectangle one-fourth inch wider, and one-half inch longer than one 
of these sheets. Cut two pieces of card-board of this shape and size, 
lay the sheets of paper between these backs so that the backs will 
|iroject one-fourth inch beyond the paper at top and bottom and at 
one side, coinciding with the sheets on the other side. Then on this 
side, make three perforations with a card punch through card board 
and sheets. Through these perforations, tie heavy cord with ornamental 
knots. Put suitable cover design. 

2. Select leaves and cut backs as before. Instead of perforations, 
stitch leaves and backs together, and paste cloth over the stitching, 
Have children to make books for geography, historj', literature, etc., 
after one of these methods. 

3. Book making. The mending of old books, the backs of which 
have worn out. should receive careful attention. 

IV Mat Making. 

1. Have the children plait ordinary corn shucks in long heavy 
plats, and then coiling up these plaits sew them together with heavy 
cord or fasten them together with narrow white oak splits. This makes 
substantial door mats for school or home. 

2. Take long strips of poplar bark and soak them in water until 
the stiff outside layer can be pealed off, plat the inside bark and bind 
together as in case of the shuck mat. 



04 



BASKETRY. 



Make baskets for use in school and home of white oak splits, willow 
twigs, poplar bark, birch bark, pine needles, mre-grrass, straw, or any 
other material that the children can gather in the neighborhood. 
Willow Mat.s iv Process of Making. 




65 



Willow Baskets. 




VII Wood Work. 

Ill tliL' work suggested below an elahoiiile ciimiimeut of tools is not 
necessary. Eveiy piece of it has been done already in Georgia eonntry 
schools without any formal eqnipment. The simpler pieces have been 
done with a pocket knife and a piece of glass. When other tools ar*- 
used the children borrow them from their homes. 

Some of the teachers have enlisted the interest of fathers and 
induced them to come to the school and help in the work. 

Suggestive List of Articles to be Made. 

Dibbles, hammer and axe handles, butter j)addlcs, churn dashers and 
lids, bread boards, sand tables, flower boxes, water stands, rustic fences, 
trellises for vines, bird boxes, doorsteps, book shelves, porch chairs, 
swings, wheelbarrows, tables, bookcases, hat and cloak racks, stej) 
ladders, merry go-rounds, poulti-y coops, houses, and brooders, bread 
trays, salt boxes, drinking troughs for farm animals, rolling pins, 
seeding testing boxes, etc. They may build a wood lioii.se, shelters for 
the sand pile, and school lunch table; put glass in windows, and rejiair 
the roof, steps, floors, etc. 

Excellent woodwork, consisting of library table, magazine rack, 
picture frame, flower box, small table, sled, log cabin, bookshelves, 
wa.shboard, and sets of doll furniture, was done by the jnipils of a 
Hancock County school of seven grades and one teacher. Miss Lola 
Allen. The tools with which it was done, were all borrowed from the 
parents. In addition to this, the children built a cloak room, made steps 
for the house, enclosed and cultivated a flower garden, and built and 
furnished a playhouse. That they did not neglect the usual work is 
abundantly proved by their fine written work in Grammar. Geography, 



66 

Arithmetic, Spelling, Composition etc. Miss Allen had had no previous 
training in woodwork. 

Thanks are due The School Arts Publishing Co., Boston, Mass., for 
many of the illustrations used in this work. Extracts were also made 
from Holton P. Rollins' "Industrial Work for Public Schools." 




Woodwork Done by School Children. 



House Built by School Children. 



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